A friend’s golden lost his life to a cardiac event after several years on a grain free diet, confirmed by necropsy that he had a heart attack. The problem with grain-free diets is the substitution of legumes as fillers – this seems to be the contributing factor for dietary DCM. Did you have a necropsy done to verify it was the heart?

I’m so very sorry. Assuming your dog had dietary DCM, DCM is the absolute worst. We lost our Doberman in the same way, to sudden death, but in her case it’s endemic in the breed and she was diagnosed a little over a year prior. If it’s any consolation, the arrhythmic form of DCM – also called sudden death – does not allow the dog to suffer. It’s over like someone flipped a light switch. I know that’s the form I preferred for my dog – it SUCKED for us, but it was an easy departure for her, and that’s what matters most.

I would start researching raw, if you have a dog in need of a very restrictive diet that cannot easily be satisfied by mass produced options. Do a L O T of research into raw, as it’s more complicated than feeding a kibble diet.

Please get this puppy to the vet.

This seems acute. I sure hope you got him in when your vet opened today.

I would be looking for an exotics vet yesterday.

First: get a full “senior” bloodwork panel done. Rule out anything medical.
Second: hide all trash and all food. Counter and garbage surfing are self-reinforcing. Lock the trash away, get a locking can. Remove all food from all counters and put them in a secure cabinet. Lock the fridge with a child lock, if necessary.
Third: Crate when you can’t supervise.

This is usually medical if it’s sudden like this, but you need to be proactive in your prevention, and it’s always a multiprong approach.

Set up a daily training routine with him. At least 5-10 minutes a day will work WONDERS for his overall behavior.

The other person isn’t willing to work with him?

Making a big deal out of leaving is part of the issue. I have a shelter mutt who came to us with some separation anxiety (on top of everything else) and she absolutely door dashed when we first got her. We built a routine of giving a high value dental chew just before we leave, and we require her to go to place (go to her bed) before she gets it. Until he has a better grasp of not door dashing, use a barrier! Baby gates are relatively expensive and very, very useful. Crating is also a good skill every dog should have, and should be practiced regularly – don’t discount this as an option.

There’s a LOT of training you can do at home. I mentioned a local training club for the widest variety of training options available, but you don’t necessarily need to go someplace to get a trainer in your home. Additionally, you can investigate Denise Fenzi’s dog sports university online at https://www.fenzidogsportsacademy.com/

How is the dog getting out? At what point of your departure is he leaving? I suspect this needs to involve a behavior change in the humans as well as the dog. Reevaluate HOW you leave, and what you focus on as you’re leaving. Make sure the door is closed securely when you leave. If the door doesn’t close securely, look into fixing that issue.

I would also make sure the dog understands that we don’t go outside without a person. Take the dog outside, spend time outside with him, and bring him back inside when you come back in. (Dogs shouldn’t be unattended outside anyway, so this is a safety thing beyond training.) Work on barrier training – train the dog not to cross exterior doors without being told to do so. Look for a training club to find a good trainer to help you work with this issue. (In the Baltimore area we have Oriole Dog Training, which offers a wide array of training classes. Most major cities have at least one training club.)

I can’t fathom what this might be, though a toxicity comes to mind. Definitely get her to the vet.

Here’s one way to find clinics: https://ofa.org/health-clinics/

If you’re in the Maryland area, there’s a Newark, DE clinic with Echos on the 24th but they may be full already. Reach out TODAY.